Grace Doyle is from beautiful but chilly Tramore in Ireland, and loves to travel to warmer climates for peak swell seasons. This is an article Grace wrote for SurfGirl before the lockdown.
Being motivated to surf in Ireland in the depths of winter can pretty tough at times. I often curse my choice of sport when I’m getting ready in freezing temperatures, or getting into a wet wetsuit in the howling winds and rain. So why do I still do it? The same reason that every other surfer battling the elements does: the feeling is totally and utterly worth it in the end! There is something so energetic, yet calming, about being out in the cold, which just makes surfing even more rewarding and satisfying. I know it’s a bit of a cliché, but I really think that surfing is like therapy for the soul. Surfing has undoubtedly got me through some of the toughest times in my life. It’s where you connect with nature and disconnect from the noise of everything else.
However, nobody can deny the appeal of travelling abroad to warmer climates and surfing for hours without a wetsuit, in tropical waters, surrounded by golden sandy beaches, colourful reef and lush palm trees. Indo is one such surfers’ paradise. Each time I go there I understand why I keep returning. Yet even though I will continue to travel to far-flung destinations, I would never be able to turn my back on Ireland and surfing at home. Whenever I’m away, I get so excited about coming home and being back out at my local break, or different breaks around Ireland.
Surfing has always given me the courage to go on new and exciting adventures, and I am so grateful to have met some wonderful friends along the way.
A few years back, I applied for, and hastily accepted, a home school teaching gig at one of the best surf resorts in the world – Kandui Resort. My brother had tagged me into the Facebook ad for the job, and I couldn’t believe the opportunity I had been given. What started out as a self-discovery and teaching venture, which would hopefully involve lots of surfing, very quickly turned into an incredible experience that went far beyond all of that. I have been so lucky to home school the owner Ray’s three beautiful kids on their beautiful island where they live, play and surf. I get to immerse myself in the grommets’ lives and enjoy teaching for what it’s meant to be – the excitement, magic, freedom and fun of learning and discovering. And all the while, I’m also able to share the stoke and love of surfing with these incredible little humans.
Surfing has always given me the courage to go on new and exciting adventures, and I am so grateful to have met some wonderful friends along the way. When I first set foot on the Mentawais, I was certain I would be sticking to the easy waves, but after many wipeouts and sessions without catching a wave, I began to feel more comfortable with the power and size of the peaks. I’ve since had some of my best surfing moments in the Mentawai Islands, including big waves at Hideaways, and the best, biggest barrel of my life at Bankvaults. Not forgetting some of the fun and easy-going days at 4bobs and Bengbengs, when you just don’t stop smiling and laughing.
The waves are different from Ireland. At home, when you fall, it hurts a lot more than when you fall into the balmy Indonesian water. Saying that, the razor sharp reef is a lot more off-putting in Indo, whereas as in Ireland you have a 5mm suit to protect you. Yet the bigger waves in Indo are more inviting, and because they are more consistent – mechanically breaking in a similar way – I have being able to mentally prepare and push my surfing more. All in all, no matter where I surf, I always try to follow my gut. Some days I’m not up for the bigger waves, and other days I am fired up. It really depends on how you feel that day, in that moment.
The waves are different from Ireland. At home, when you fall, it hurts a lot more than when you fall into the balmy Indonesian water. Saying that, the razor sharp reef is a lot more off-putting in Indo, whereas as in Ireland you have a 5mm suit to protect you. Yet the bigger waves in Indo are more inviting, and because they are more consistent – mechanically breaking in a similar way – I have being able to mentally prepare and push my surfing more. All in all, no matter where I surf, I always try to follow my gut. Some days I’m not up for the bigger waves, and other days I am fired up. It really depends on how you feel that day, in that moment.
I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to experience the magic of both Indo and Ireland. Without surfing in my life, I would never have stumbled upon this opportunity and lifestyle to come to such a beautiful place, and meet such amazing people.
Go raibh céad mile maith agat (a hundred thousand thank yous) – to everyone at Kandui Resort for making me feel so welcome. And a huge thanks for all the support from my sponsors; Billabong Women’s, Quiver Surfboards, Etnies, FCS, Sungod, Wild Atlantic Surf Co. BeyondSurf, Surfersskin, Surfears, Freedom Surf School and @PaulPhelanDesigns.
Follow Grace @Graciesurfer
This article first appeared in SurfGirl issue 69.
