Australian surfer Robyn Strano began surfing in 1963 and was one of the first female surfers in her area. Now in her 70s, Robyn still has an amazing infectious energy and love for surfing. Here she shares her gratitude for the simple things in life – an inspiration for to us all.
I lived near the beach. I just saw the waves and had to have a go. I just wanted to surf and that’s what I did. Being a female surfer in the 60s, it wasn’t as competitive and aggressive as it is now. Why should men have all the fun when women can have it too? When you live in a small town, the locals know you and have respect for you in the surf, and they love to see women surfing.
When I was in my forties I contracted Ross River Fever and lost the strength in my arms, so stopped surfing until I was in my fifties. When I got my strength back that’s when I decided that surfing is what I wanted to do forever. Surfing is life. I have a daughter and three grandsons that also surf, and a few close surfing buddies. We all have a great life. I still work in the hospitality industry. I exercise every morning and night, go walking and ride an exercise bike. I like to go swimming, when I was young I was a Country Swimming Champion.
Looking back at my younger self, I would tell myself to enjoy my life and make the most of it. And also to be myself and not try to be anyone else. Every day is a new day; yesterday has gone. So don’t worry about tomorrow, live for the day.
I surf because I love to surf. There’s nothing as good as starting the day with a surf. I love being in the water and I find that it clears the head – you don’t even think about any of your problems when you are surfing.