Hopeful for something fun and clean, me and longboarder Izzy Henshall went on a search for peeling lefts one October morning.
A contemplation on the conditions resulted in a quote from Izzy, ‘If I go I not expecting the best session, often I have the most fun.’ Wise words, I took aboard this mentality as we decided to “Just go in and see what happens; maybe it will get better as the tide drops.”
Not another surfer in sight. Just a few dog walkers. The sand blowing along the beach. Summer was over… there was no doubt about it. The water was intense, rippy and tidal. Just about doable with my fins. Worth the swim.
Learning a few things about thankfulness on a breezy October morning.