This past October the first big swell of the 2018 season hit Teahupo’o, Tahiti. When Bethany Hamilton spotted it on the charts a week prior, she immediately booked flights, got her boards ready and flew to the island paradise to take on “The Wall of Skulls”. She’d been waiting for the chance to get solid Teahupo’o, and she wasn’t about to miss the opportunity.
A week or so before the swell hit my brother Tim texted me about the forecast, and it looked amazing, I was hoping it was a bit bigger to whip a few but it wasn’t. It was a fun challenge to paddle with some of the guys though! I’m always game to go to beautiful Tahiti! It’s such a beautiful and intimidating wave. For me, positioning and direction of swell is super important for catching waves.
Over the years I’ve learnt that you’ve got to be willing to try the so-called ‘impossible’ and hold true to who you are and what gets you fired up.
