Normandy isn’t the first place on a surfers radar, but for Mathilde Lemonnier it turned out to be the perfect location.
On a stretch of coast often overlooked as a surf region, Normandy offers a growing and committed community. We caught up with photographer Mathilde Lemonnier to learn more about how she built her connection with surf photography.
Mathilde, tell us a bit about yourself and where you’re from?
I was born in Le Havre, up north in Normandy. I had my very first camera when I was 7 or 8, and my first ‘serious’ one when I was 14. In 2017, I quit my job and moved to Cotentin after I met the father of my son. I arrived during December, knowing absolutely no one, and not yet a professional photographer.
I didn’t know what to do with this new life. The first few months were hard, to be honest. But as time passed, I realised that it was probably my only opportunity to make my biggest dream come true – to live off my art. I gathered up my courage, and I started my business. For seven years, I was mostly a wedding photographer. But the call of the sea was too strong, so I decided to focus on families, professionals and surf.
The Normandy coast, it’s not the first surf region people would consider choosing to shoot. What drew you to picking up a camera here?
Photography has always been a part of me, it runs through my veins. Everywhere I’ve been or lived, I had my camera, so the question did not even arise when I found my forever home here, in Cotentin.
This part of Normandy can seem, at first, unfriendly due to changing and unpredictable weather. This is, by the way, the main cliché that you hear about Normandy, “it’s always raining”. But I promise that when you learn how to adapt to those fickle weather conditions – and accept it – it’s truly a pleasure to wander in the dunes, on the cliffs, or in the line up. No matter if the sun is out or if the skies are grey, landscapes and especially the sea are always magical, and this is the most beautiful gift that Normandy can offer: a constant poetry.
It can be really harsh sometimes, winters are long, but it all worth it. I love that despite all of these defaults, it’s just the sweetest place to live in. And when I found out that the swell can be insane, the surfers are REALLY good, and it was preserved from mass tourism, I signed up for the rest of my life. I know it doesn’t sound as sexy as the South West Coast, but I promise that you won’t be disappointed. It’s just another way of living.
What’s the Normandy surf scene and community like?
The Normandy surf community deserves to be recognised as any other spots on the South West coast of France. We have solid conditions and excellent surfers in the line up both male and female – who clearly can compete and win. That’s why things are developing for example, a national Shortboard Open took place in my home spot of Sciotot in February. It was the first time ever that a national competition has been organised in Normandy, and I think it’s consolidating the legitimacy and credibility of the surf in Normandy.
Spots are not too busy for now, and most of them have a surf school or club. And everyone knows each other, it’s very chill, super kind and supportive when needed. Ambience in the line up is mostly casual and respectful, which makes the sessions a joyful. I think it’s the beginning of something great, and good things are coming ahead.
As well we have more and more women in the line up, which is a blessing! Surf is an individual sport, but it’s collectively that it’s the most thrilling.
Describe the best thing about surfing and photography?
Both surf and photography help to keep me grounded. At a time when we are overstimulated by screens and social media. With photography, I need the BE there. I need to be present to my clients, to my environment, in the moment and not miss anything. And it’s truly a gift. I can find beauty in anything, at any place, in all conditions. A sweet morning ray of sunshine, hot coffee steam, or a beautiful reflection in the windows make my day sweeter.
When I’m on my board, waiting for the waves, I am hypnotised by the sea’s movements. I can feel the wind and the cold on my skin, the sun on my face and clearly hear the sound of the water on my board. Being in the present soothes my mind. I can see my friends and my partner, looking at the horizon, peaceful, lost in their own thoughts. I’m happy for them, happy to be here with them, and love to hear them cheer on me when I killed it on a
wave I was scared to take.
Finally, I think it’s all about feelings. Surf, photography, it’s all about sharing with people. The moments before and after the sessions are as important as the session itself. It creates connections between humans which we desperately need, and I always feel honoured when people I photograph trust me enough to share their story with me – about surf, or anything else. When they share something they’re passionate about (which is always the case with surfers talking about surf), people have that sparkle in the eyes that I absolutely love and find very touching. That’s what I prefer in both: listen, share stories, and feel that I am deeply alive. To express the very wide range of emotions through my pictures, and bring feelings and poetry in surf.
How do you feel when you’re out in the line up and how do you control the situation to get the perfect shot?
Not gonna lie, it’s a mixed feelings. On one hand, I’m scared when I’m out in the line up (but I’m going anyway). I’m scared of blocking a surfer on its wave and make them miss it by being one in the way. I’m scared of being hurt by a fin if I’m too close underwater. I should wear a helmet by the way. But my biggest fear is if flood my camera in the waterhousing, so I’m constantly nervously checking if there is any drop of water inside.
But on the other hand, I’m super excited to create in a such delightful environment. And to be honest, I don’t control anything. I try my best to find the perfect placement. And for this, you need to be very aware of your environment, it’s almost like mathematics.
You have to anticipate and analyse the sets, the waves, their speed, the surfer’s speed, and try to find the best place to make all of those factors meet in one, single moment. Not too far, not too close, not too soon, not too late.
It’s a very fragile balance to get the perfect shot, which I achieve sometimes but perfection is not my purpose. When I shoot from the land, it’s much easier. I can see who is in the line up and is well positioned (and so have a better chance to catch a wave) and focus on them.
As a photographer, what are the biggest challenges you face?
On the land: the cold and the wind in winter. The sand all year long! I have only one camera, and when I need to switch from my telephoto lens to a smaller one on a windy day on the beach, it’s a nightmare. Harsh mid-day light can be hard to deal with.
As said above, placement in the water can be very challenging sometimes, especially in winter, when the peak is not clearly defined and you need to adjust your placement constantly. Literally everything is moving : me, the environment in which I’m operating, the subject. Everything is going so fast that I often encounter focus issues, which can be super frustrating when I look at the pictures after the session and find out that more than half of them are blurred.
Which photographers work do you admire?
So many, and it’s hard to pick just a few. Chloé Eucher (wildyouth_film on instagram) for her dreamlike universe, colorful yet very delicate and organic. Sam Morris and Alice Greenfield (shot by Alice) are insanely talented to paint with light. Their pictures are very poetic, sweet and make me travel. Rita Goldfarb : her cold water photography and double exposures are amazing and poetic!
What are you hoping to explore next with your photography?
I’ll focus on my photography and video project about women and surf, which is called Sea Yourself. Document wide range of ages and body shapes of women’s relationship to surf, their body, hormonal phases they’re in (teen, menopause, post-partum) and the impact it has on their practice. Dive deep in their story and how surf shaped their life, how elder ones learned surf before internet and social media.
I want to bring light on daily basis women, I see everyday in my line up, who defy the cold and harsh conditions in Normandy to feel free and just exist on their board. I also want to show another reality of surfing in cold water, far from the palm trees and bikinis, but still a great pleasure and sensations of sliding.
Explore underwater photography, and if a surf brand is passing by, I’d love to shoot a campaign one day.
